Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Squirt should be started on a clean, properly de-greased and dry chain. Factory grease on a new chain should be removed with organic solvent if needed. A second application ten minutes after the first is recommended when starting out with Squirt.

De-greasing is not necessary when using Squirt. It does not form a black build-up like oils that traps dirt to accelerate chain wear. It does not smudge and stays dry. Brush off with dry brush if needed and remove occasional build-up from rear derailleur wheels with a toothpick. 

It depends on riding conditions. In general, when you start hearing a dry chain noise, re-application is already due. In wet, muddy conditions it will not last as long as in dry-dust free conditions. In general, from 30 to 300 miles on one application - the chain will stay clean. If you expect riding in wet conditions, lube your chain the day before if possible.

Squirt Chain Lube is the original, first to market wax/water emulsion chain lube for use above freezing in all conditions. Low-Temp: Solid wax hardens below freezing point (32℉, 0) impairing lubing function. Low-Temp contains wax modifier that keeps the wax consistency optimal at these temperatures (0℉ to 32℉, -18℃ to 0℃). E-Bike lube contains high-pressure additives to deal with generally higher rotational force on e-bike drive trains. These lubes are interchangeable but the full benefit of each negated without proper de-greasing when changing.

Squirt should be stored between 40℉ and 95℉ with the cap on. If it freezes (below 32℉, 0℃) or dries out, it becomes thick. It can be restored to a creamy liquid by adding a little water and shaking it up (normally about 10% of water).

The small black particles are normal on stationary trainers. This also happens when on the road or trails, one just does not see it.  It is the hard-wax components of Squirt shedding from the chain.  Excess wax and dirt trapped sheds via this method.  You may find that more wax accumulates on the chain of your trainer - this is due the chain not vibrating/shaking enough to promote shedding. Our  biodegradability rating is therefor important as it would end up in the natural environment. 

If stored under recommended conditions, the lube will last for many years. Stability samples of older than 15 years still retain functionality.

When the lube dries out after applying, the wax solidifies on the chain. When you start riding, the excess wax is expelled in small pieces and generally shaken off the chain while riding, especially with mountain biking.  With road biking more of the expelled wax stays on the chain because of the smooth riding surface and starts accumulating on the derailleur wheels and chain itself. The excess wax is out of harms way and does not affect the functioning of the lube unlike oily lubes that re-enter the lubrication process, wearing down the drive train. With Squirt there is a difference between a cosmetically clean chain and a functionally clean one.

The way you can minimize the build-up of wax is to run the chain through a dry cloth after applying. This will remove the excess lube beforehand and reduce the build-up. After that you do not need to de-grease between lubing intervals and just wipe off the excess every time after applying.

No, it does not clog up the valves from the inside and you will be able to top-up at any time and also inflate as you need.

In rare cases the sealant might solidify prematurely to form solid pieces of rubber in the tire.  This is due to two factors; chemical contamination and CO₂ bombing with the valve at 6 o’clock (bottom) position.  Chemical contamination usually occurs from the mold release agent used during the manufacturing of tires.  New tires should be cleaned properly with liquid soap and rinsed with water to remove manufacturing chemical residue. 

The second probable cause for solids formation (bombing at 6 o’clock position) is due to the extreme cold stream of CO₂ jetting into the puddle of sealant at the bottom of the tire. The sealant can handle sub-zero temperatures to -4 ℉ (-20℃) without freezing, but not that which comes from the sudden expansion of the high-pressure gas into the immediate surrounding low-pressure atmosphere into the puddle.  This causes the sealant emulsion to solidify, hence forming lumps.

Yes, it's normal no cause for concern.

The latex part of the sealant was absorbed into the tire to seal rubber porosity, especially in tubeless-ready tires and thin-walled racing tires which are more porous.  This seals the side walls and less frequent air top-ups will be required.  Remove the remainder of the translucent liquid in the tire and top-up with fresh sealant.

CO₂ can be used in emergencies with sealant, baring in mind that the bomb should only be activated with the valve at the top (i.e. 12 o’clock) position. The cold blast of gas directly into the sealant can lead to local solidification of most latex-based sealants with resulting lumps.

We recommend 3-5ml per 100ml-150ml as per the instructions on the label.

Yes, you can. There is an optimum level though where-after more kernels will not seal more effectively.

Barrier Balm is not aqueous cream based. It is a more fatty, high lanolin containing balm which is water repelling. It stays on skin longer and  protects for the duration of an ultra-endurance event in wet or dry conditions.

Lanolin melts at 100℉ to 107℉ (38℃ to 41℃). It can still be applied to skin in liquid form. When it cools down again it will set to the original consistency unchanged. Store at room temperature.

This is a characteristic of pure lanolin. Once it's in contact with skin and warms up it softens making applying easier. It can be difficult to apply in very cold conditions though. Storing at room temperature is recommended.